after a jolly long cycle ride along a jolly hot coralite road in the midday heat we reach the humble but happening village of Charawe - "just like Zanzibar used to be 20 years ago" - except this is Zanzibar today! ...and then a few hundred metres further and we are at the end of the road on the edge of the delightful Chwaka Bay (at high tide). Time for a rest in the shade of the baobab.